Hidden Historical Gem Where the Bush Meets Beach
By Anna Dempsey
Bulgo is a wild coastal outpost and it’s not just a spectacular beach, it’s a heritage-listed beach-shack village!
This hidden gem nestled on the outskirts of the Royal National Park in Otford is the perfect mix of bush and beach for adventurers looking for a short but fun-filled walk in the northern burbs.
The winding bushtrack, stunning beach and whimsical shacks will not disappoint!
Family Friendly :: The walk is relatively short but there is a very steep decline, best suited to experienced adventurers with moderate fitness levels. There are unguarded edges and the beach is unpatrolled and not safe for swimming so keep that in mind if you bring the littles.
Easily Accessible :: Access the track by car via Lady Wakehurst Drive in Otford or catch the train to Otford and walk roughly one kilometre to the coast via Beaumont Road. Otford is a 30 minute drive from Wollongong and the Bulgo track is accessible via Lady Wakehurst Drive. You can find parking opposite the Otford Pantry [opens Sat/Sun only].
Stairs :: There are lots of rock stairs and loosely constructed ‘bushwalk’ steps through this unpaved bush track.
Dog-friendly :: This is part of the national park so leave the pooches at home for this one.
Length :: This walk is short, just 1km return!
Time :: 20 mins downhill, a little longer coming back up if you take some breaks. We recommend a good 1.5hr there and back, with time to explore.
Ocean Glimpses
The entrance to the walk is opposite a small parking bay close to the ‘Lady Wakehurst Road’ street sign opposite Domville Road.
As you enter the track you quickly descend below street level into the bush.
Gum trees give way to ocean glimpses and the views across the ocean are magnificent.
It won’t be long until you encounter the first of many thoughtfully placed benches and while you might think they are unnecessary on the way down you may want to have a rest on the way back.
What goes down, must come up!
Bush Bash
This track is great fun, the initial steep decline gives way to a more gentle winding track.
We found ourselves stopping at the foot of some incredibly tall and beautiful Cabbage Palms that formed a dappled canopy above.
The track weaves in and out of dense bush and down towards the ocean.
If you are in any doubt of where you’re headed, the sound of the waves will guide you!
About halfway down the track you’ll encounter a fork in the track.
Go left, and stay left to get to the beach.
After that left turn you’ll come to a dense patch of Cabbage Palms, ferns and vines in an area we coined “Palm Grove”.
Can you smell the ocean?
You’re nearly there.
Village People
Not long after “Palm Grove” we encountered some signs of the village, a waterway, a small bridge and then, a dramatic opening out into the village!
There are 50 or so shacks at Bulgo with arguably one of the best views of any real estate along the Illawarra coast!
These beach shacks are a combination of weekenders and long term residential dwellings.
We could smell someone’s breakfast cooking as we arrived and there was washing hanging outside of several homes.
We saw a couple taking in the sun on their deck at the northern end of the beach.
Despite the ramshackle old-time character of this place, the solar panels and the residents themselves are a reminder that this is very much an active community of off-grid ocean-loving locals and not a relic of the past.
Hidden History
Despite its wild and seemingly inaccessible nature, Bulgo and its surrounds have a long history.
The Dharawal people have been in this area for millennia with important sites around the Royal National Park dating back a whopping 7,500 years!
Bulgo’s more recent settlements form part of a network of similar shack communities which stretch north of Bulgo through the Royal National Park.
These shacks are entirely off grid and inaccessible by car.
Most of the shack communities began in the early 1930s.
Bulgo had a unique beginning as an extension of the local Helensburgh community.
Families are thought to have settled on the beach in canvas tents as far back as the 1890s when the railway, coal and timber industries were thriving.
To this day, some current residents are related to the original community.
Beach Beauty
Shacks aside we were spellbound by the beach itself.
The ocean mist and rugged headland formed the most incredible backdrop to the sleepy seaside dwellings.
We felt like we’d been transported on to a film set.
While the ocean here is not swim-safe, it’s perfect for paddling with a beautiful wide rockpool to the south of the beach and lots to explore in and around the rock platform.
Hours of fun for young and old!
Good To Know :: Take note of the weather conditions and tides especially if you have little ones in tow. It’s best to explore at low tide and better to avoid altogether during a big swell or heavy rain as the track can get very muddy.
What’s Nearby :: We rewarded ourselves, as we do with most bushwalks with an afternoon treat. We drove 15 mins down south to the newly reopened Coledale RSL. The club has had a spruce up and looks amazing but more importantly it’s being run entirely by local volunteers!
Each day they open [Thursday – Sunday] they host a different local restaurant/food fan.
We arrived to catch the last of the sun and stayed for the woodfired pizza! Check their socials for updates on what food options and events are happening each day.
This is such a great track if you are in the mood for adventure but not in the mood for a long hike.
You can spend a little or a long time at the beach exploring, you could even bring a picnic.
Remember to pack light and prepare for a bit of huffing and puffing as the climb back up is a little more demanding!
We love sharing our awesome outdoor adventures with The Fold readers and want to make sure everyone stays safe and healthy when giving our walks and rides a crack for themselves. So, always check the weather forecast before you venture out. If you’re heading into a National Park, be sure to consult the National Parks website for up-to-date information about current alerts. Prepare yourself with the right equipment, clothing, safety items, with plenty to eat and drink if you’re going on longer hikes, and always let someone else know where you’re going and what time you are expected to be back. Have fun and stay safe!